Feeding Quails
Compared to most other poultry, quails have a very high protein requirement. They require ideally 28% protein. Unfortunately, this type of feed can be hard to find, especially in Canada (or at least in Ontario). Studies have shown that although quails can be fine on a 21% protein diet once they are adults, they produce larger eggs and fare better with the higher protein.
Chicks especially need the high protein. Some quail or game bird feeds have 30% protein. This allows them to grow healthy, with less health issues and shinier feathers. A study showed that it took up to 4 generations to recover from the issues caused by lower protein once the first generation started being fed correctly. It is extremely important, and unfortunately, most breeders do not feed enough protein. Many feed the quails chicken grower or layer (usually around 16% protein), since that is what they already have for their chickens.
Unfortunately, this creates quails that have a weakened immune system. Since most raise quails in wire bottomed cages and do not keep them for very long, they do not notice the immunity issues. However, once placed in a cage that has a more natural environment with a dirt floor that naturally contains bacteria, they very quickly developed bumblefoot - an infection that usually develops on their foot pad caused by a bacteria that is present in almost all dirt. We first thought that we were doing something wrong, until we found the study that explained the weakened immune system. We are working towards breeding the healthiest quails possible, and after only one generation of high protein feed, we no longer have the bumblefoot issues. Quails fed feed too low in protein can also develop a habit of plucking each other’s feathers.
If you live in an area where you have access to high protein game bird feed, then this is usually the best option. In our case, we feed organic turkey starter. It is ground fine enough for their tiny beaks and contains 26.5% protein. We then supplement it with higher protein food such as red lentils (27-28% protein), hemp seeds (30-33% protein), or various bugs that we find. We make sure to give them a high protein food daily as chicks, and once they are around 10 weeks old, we reduce the frequency, though you can definitely continue. 26.5% protein is enough for them to get their nutritional requirements. 28% is slightly better, but there is only a small difference once they are adults.
We also feed our quails fermented feed during the winter, and a modified version of fermented feed during the summer. Typical fermented feed is prepared by placing feed in a large (ideally glass) container with enough water to cover a few inches above the feed and a bit of raw apple cider vinegar (1 tsp or tbsp depending on size of container). Many also do it without the raw vinegar, but it helps to jump start the fermentation process. The feed swells up quite a bit from absorbing the water, and you need to make sure there is always at least an inch of water above the feed so that it doesn't mold, unless you use it quite quickly. Do not make more than your birds will eat in 2 days. This works well, and our quails loved it after the first few tries, and they prefer it over the regular dry feed. However, during the heat of summer, we find it easier to simply keep their feed bins near their housing and add water directly. Fermented feed smells somewhat similar to raw bread. Fermented feed gives both chickens and quails firmer poops (quails fed dry feed have very runny poops that usually smell awful once adults. Baby quails usually don't smell for a while). Quails fed wetted feed have a noticeable reduction in their poop odour. Quails also eat less on fermented feed. The reason they can eat less is because fermented feed increases the amount of certain nutrients and helps make them more easily digestible. We discovered that simply wetting the feed before giving it to the quails gave us similar results. We usually try to do it a few hours before feeding, but if we can't, we just wet it right before. We put just enough water so that the feed can absorb it. We only do enough to fill their bowl, so we don't waste anything or have the risk of it molding. It is still better to feed them fermented feed, but it is an option if fermentation seems like too much of a hassle.
Chicks especially need the high protein. Some quail or game bird feeds have 30% protein. This allows them to grow healthy, with less health issues and shinier feathers. A study showed that it took up to 4 generations to recover from the issues caused by lower protein once the first generation started being fed correctly. It is extremely important, and unfortunately, most breeders do not feed enough protein. Many feed the quails chicken grower or layer (usually around 16% protein), since that is what they already have for their chickens.
Unfortunately, this creates quails that have a weakened immune system. Since most raise quails in wire bottomed cages and do not keep them for very long, they do not notice the immunity issues. However, once placed in a cage that has a more natural environment with a dirt floor that naturally contains bacteria, they very quickly developed bumblefoot - an infection that usually develops on their foot pad caused by a bacteria that is present in almost all dirt. We first thought that we were doing something wrong, until we found the study that explained the weakened immune system. We are working towards breeding the healthiest quails possible, and after only one generation of high protein feed, we no longer have the bumblefoot issues. Quails fed feed too low in protein can also develop a habit of plucking each other’s feathers.
If you live in an area where you have access to high protein game bird feed, then this is usually the best option. In our case, we feed organic turkey starter. It is ground fine enough for their tiny beaks and contains 26.5% protein. We then supplement it with higher protein food such as red lentils (27-28% protein), hemp seeds (30-33% protein), or various bugs that we find. We make sure to give them a high protein food daily as chicks, and once they are around 10 weeks old, we reduce the frequency, though you can definitely continue. 26.5% protein is enough for them to get their nutritional requirements. 28% is slightly better, but there is only a small difference once they are adults.
We also feed our quails fermented feed during the winter, and a modified version of fermented feed during the summer. Typical fermented feed is prepared by placing feed in a large (ideally glass) container with enough water to cover a few inches above the feed and a bit of raw apple cider vinegar (1 tsp or tbsp depending on size of container). Many also do it without the raw vinegar, but it helps to jump start the fermentation process. The feed swells up quite a bit from absorbing the water, and you need to make sure there is always at least an inch of water above the feed so that it doesn't mold, unless you use it quite quickly. Do not make more than your birds will eat in 2 days. This works well, and our quails loved it after the first few tries, and they prefer it over the regular dry feed. However, during the heat of summer, we find it easier to simply keep their feed bins near their housing and add water directly. Fermented feed smells somewhat similar to raw bread. Fermented feed gives both chickens and quails firmer poops (quails fed dry feed have very runny poops that usually smell awful once adults. Baby quails usually don't smell for a while). Quails fed wetted feed have a noticeable reduction in their poop odour. Quails also eat less on fermented feed. The reason they can eat less is because fermented feed increases the amount of certain nutrients and helps make them more easily digestible. We discovered that simply wetting the feed before giving it to the quails gave us similar results. We usually try to do it a few hours before feeding, but if we can't, we just wet it right before. We put just enough water so that the feed can absorb it. We only do enough to fill their bowl, so we don't waste anything or have the risk of it molding. It is still better to feed them fermented feed, but it is an option if fermentation seems like too much of a hassle.
Supplements
We occasionally give our quails supplements in the form of vitamin B complex, vitamin C, and/or probiotics. Vitamin C helps them during periods of high heat, since during the summer we get many consecutive days at around 30°C, and usually have very little rain. During this heat, they sometimes reduce or change their laying habits. Vitamin B helps with stresses not related to heat, and especially helps with an issue that causes the quails to walk backwards very quickly, often slightly shaking their heads. We had this issue with our first quails, and later found out that a deficiency in vitamin B could cause this. Indeed, this solved the issue, though it took maybe 2 weeks to completely resolve. Since these animals are so small, you do not want to give too many vitamins. Vitamin C tends to make their poop runny, as in humans, if given too much. If you have a powdered form, I would only give a tiny pinch in their feed during hot days. For vitamin B, I think we gave 1/2 a capsule per day for about 2 weeks, then occasionally for a few weeks after that, just to make sure it didn't come back. This again relates to protein, since a lack of protein causes vitamin B deficiency.